The Temple Forgotten for Hundreds of Years in the Angkor Complex
Beng Mealea, an ancient temple believed to be the burial site of King Suryavarman II, lies within the Angkor monument complex and is now in ruins after centuries of being forgotten in the dense forest. Discovered by French scientists in 1954, Beng Mealea is considered a smaller version of Angkor Wat, located 77 km from Siem Reap city center, along Highway 6.
Angkor was once a powerful empire under the reign of King Suryavarman II (1113–1150), a king renowned for his “undefeated” reputation. He was the builder of the magnificent Angkor Wat, a structure that has continued to awe the world. After the king’s death, both he and the empire sank into obscurity, with no one knowing or being able to explain the mysteries of the past.
In 1965, Western explorers discovered Beng Mealea deep in the forest and identified it as the burial site of King Suryavarman II, along with the treasures of the Khmer Empire. In 2003, a trail leading to Beng Mealea was cleared, making the temple accessible to many visitors.
Though smaller than Angkor Wat, Beng Mealea is still considered one of the largest temples of the Khmer Empire. The temple consists of three galleries surrounding a central sanctuary, now mostly in ruins. The surrounding area has a “cross-shaped monastery” structure similar to Angkor Wat.
A wooden walkway leads visitors to the temple’s center and outer galleries. However, to explore other parts of the temple, visitors often have to climb over fallen stones and scale walls, as described by Norwegian photographer JP Klovstad, who has visited the temple more than 10 times. Within the temple grounds, only a few gates and moats remain.
Built in the Hindu style, Beng Mealea primarily used sandstone as its material. Over the centuries, the temple has become covered in moss, trees, and thick underbrush. Large piles of collapsed stones surround the site, creating an eerie yet mesmerizing scene. On these remaining stones and walls are carvings depicting images from Hindu mythology, including the god Vishnu, the Garuda bird deity, and the Apsara celestial dancers.
In the 12th century, Mahayana Buddhism also gained prominence in the region, and the Khmer kings allowed Buddhist motifs to be incorporated into some of the temple’s carvings, alongside the original depictions of Vishnu from Hinduism.
The elevated pathways feature long balustrades formed by the bodies of seven-headed Naga serpents. In both Hinduism and Theravada Buddhism, the Naga serpents are believed to protect rivers, springs, and wells and symbolize prosperity, bringing water for fertile crops.
On March 27, 2020, Beng Mealea was added to UNESCO’s Tentative List of World Heritage Sites. After being abandoned for centuries, likely since the 16th century, the entire site has been overtaken by vegetation, with vines wrapping around the temple gates. Today, tree roots extend across the walls, emerging from cracks in the stones, adding to the temple’s mysterious atmosphere. “The scenery here is incredibly impressive,” remarked the Norwegian photographer.
