Kannauj: The strong revival of the perfume capital of India
Kannauj, often hailed as the “Perfume Capital” of India, is breathing new life into flowers and herbs through the traditional art of essential oil production. Nestled along the sacred Ganges River in Uttar Pradesh, this historic city has been producing essential oils for more than 400 years, long before Grasse in Provence, France became famous as a perfume center. Despite the rise of industrial perfumes, essential oil producers in Kannauj are still evolving to meet modern demands while preserving their heritage.
A timeless craft with a rich history
Recent excavations near the Indus Valley Civilization reveal perfume distillation techniques dating back about 3,000 years. Local legend attributes the discovery of essential oils to the Mughal Empress Nur Jahan in the 16th-17th centuries, although Sanskrit texts claim that Kannauj was a perfume center before the Mughal period. Historians credit the Mughals with reviving essential oils by introducing new ingredients and refined distillation methods.
Essential oils are made through the meticulous grinding of flowers and plants, then soaked in sandalwood oil or water. Unlike modern perfumes that rely on alcohol as a solvent, essential oils use sandalwood oil, creating a concentrated scent that penetrates deep into the skin. With a wide variety of scents, from floral to woody, musk to herbal, attar essential oil is loved by both men and women. Seasonal changes also play an important role, clove, cardamom and saffron essential oils are popular in the colder months, while jasmine, vetiver and marigold are popular in the colder months. The weather is milder.
As industrial perfumery gained popularity, Kannauj’s traditional essential oil industry faced a significant decline. Once home to more than 700 distilleries, this number dropped to less than 200 by the mid-2000s. Most essential oils produced in India are used as raw materials for Western cosmetics and perfumes instead sell directly to consumers. However, recent years have seen a resurgence driven by young Indian entrepreneurs eager to revive and modernize this ancient craft.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, brothers Krati and Varun Tandon, inspired by their father’s heritage of essential oil production, founded Boond Fragrances. Their mission is to raise awareness about traditional Kannauj perfumes and support local artisans. “Growing up around essential oil producers in Kannauj, we felt a strong connection to this craft,” explains Krati. Seeing the downturn and the struggle local manufacturers face, we wanted to make a difference.” Boond Fragrances now recommends a variety of essential oils to younger consumers and markets them on platforms like Amazon.
Modernizing essential oils for a new generation. Esha Tiwari, founder of Kastoor, is on a mission to reshape the perception of essential oils. Often considered too strong, the traditional image of attar contrasts with modern tastes. Tiwari aims to bring lighter, more modern scents while retaining the essence of traditional craftsmanship. Kastoor, founded in 2021, focuses on “modern essential oils,” blending ingredients in new ways to appeal to urban, middle-class consumers. Tiwari’s approach includes organizing workshops to promote collaboration between traditional essential oil producers and modern perfumers. The result is a collection of seven “modern essential oil” products, priced between $22 and $36 for an 8ml bottle.
Back in Kannauj, the extensive knowledge and expertise of the locals is helping them adapt to new trends and promote Indian products on a global scale. The name “Kastoor” reflects the nature of “kasturi” or musk, which originates from the scent glands of the musk deer. According to folklore, the deer is fascinated by its own scent so it searches for it without knowing that the scent comes from within. “We use this as a metaphor for our work,” Tiwari said. We often look outward and forget that we are the creators of some of the most extraordinary perfumes in the world.”
As Kannauj navigates the modern perfume landscape, the blend of tradition and innovation ensures that their perfume heritage not only lives on, but thrives in today’s market.
