It’s easy to get swept away by the beauty of a place, and that’s exactly what happened to me on a radiant summer morning as I stood on the central arch of the Kalogeriko-Plakidas bridge in the heart of Zagori. The emerald river winding through a lush valley, framed by towering mountains, took my breath away. With the gentle breeze brushing past, I impulsively told my wife that I wanted my ashes to be scattered from that very spot. It was an odd declaration, especially considering that we had only been in Zagori for a few days and had no previous connection to the place. But there was something magical about it that lingered long after we left.
Back home, the intensity of that moment faded, and I reconsidered my rather hasty decision. Yet, the allure of Zagori stayed with me. It was a place that had stirred something deep within me, and now, after several years, I had the opportunity to return and see if it still held the same spell over me.
Zagori is a mountainous region in Epirus, northwestern Greece. Sometimes referred to as Zagorichoria, it’s a place where nature’s beauty and history intertwine seamlessly. Driving from Athens, we crossed the Patras bridge—a marvel of modern engineering—and made a stop at Zitsa, a village near Ioannina. Lord Byron, the famous poet, had once visited Zitsa in 1810, drawn by its wine, hospitality, and breathtaking views. As we neared Zagori, the same snow-capped peaks that captivated Byron came into view, and I felt the excitement building.
As we passed through the first village, Mesovouni, it was clear that nothing had changed. Zagori was still as pristine as I remembered—an untouched paradise where no one is allowed to disrupt its tranquility.
The region’s prosperity dates back to the Ottoman era, particularly in the 18th century when it became wealthy through trade and its skilled herbalists and bridge builders. These craftsmen left behind a legacy of villages perched on mountainsides, connected by stunning stone bridges that blend effortlessly with the natural landscape. This careful preservation of the environment has earned Zagori a UNESCO geopark listing, a well-deserved recognition of its unique heritage.
Despite the ravages of the 20th century—war, poverty, and Nazi occupation—Zagori began to rebuild in the 1990s. With the help of skilled labor from neighboring Albania and funding from the EU, the region’s grand mansions were restored, and a new economy emerged, driven by tourism. Now, Zagori is a haven for travelers seeking fresh air, soft adventures, and delicious, homemade food.
Zagori offers a range of experiences, depending on how adventurous you want to be and where you choose to stay. On my first visit, we stayed in Aristi, a central location perfect for exploring the region. We embarked on thrilling activities like whitewater rafting and hiking the cliff paths around the Vikos Gorge. Walking the gorge itself, Europe’s deepest and widest, was a challenge, but the rewards were immense, especially the cold beer that awaited us at the end.
This time, I discovered another way to experience Zagori—trekking between inns. I met a father and son on a hiking trail above Mikro Papigo, who were exploring the region with no set plans, just showing up at inns along the way. These inns are simple, yet situated in some of the most beautiful spots in Zagori, offering a unique and budget-friendly way to immerse yourself in the landscape.
Mikro Papigo, where I stayed, is a tiny village nestled in the mountains, so small that you have to leave your car at the church and walk to your accommodation. The Mikro Papigo 1700 hotel, where I stayed, is a cluster of traditional buildings that date back to 1700. The rooms offer stunning views, and the food is sourced locally, making it both delicious and affordable. The hotel is the perfect base for exploring the region’s natural beauty and indulging in its culinary delights.
One of the highlights of my trip was exploring the region’s iconic stone bridges, masterpieces of the local bridge builders. I walked between the Koukouri bridge, a high span often photographed for its dramatic setting, and the more secluded Misios bridge. The landscape, with its mix of baked mud, grasslands, and low trees, was reminiscent of a Scandinavian scene.
As I gazed down at the river, which was lower than it should have been due to a dry season, I realized that while much of Zagori remains unchanged, the climate is shifting. Even in this timeless place, the impact of a changing world is felt.
Zagori is a place where time seems to stand still, where nature and history are preserved in a delicate balance. It’s a place that captivated me once and has done so again. Whether you’re seeking adventure, tranquility, or simply a connection to something greater, Zagori offers it all. And as I prepare to leave, I know that the magic of Zagori will stay with me, just as it did before
