Fascinating journey of waffles
The delicious history of waffles
Waffles recently highlighted the rich history and global popularity of waffles, a beloved dish dating back to ancient Rome. Also known as “waffles” or “honeycomb cakes”, waffles are made from cake dough and often topped with honey, whipped cream, syrup or jam. One of the oldest desserts, waffles are ideal for breakfast or a snack. Today, waffles are loved around the world, from the United States to Europe and Asia, with many different sweet and savory variations.
Origin: The ancient beginnings of waffles
Experts believe that waffles have been around for thousands of years. According to historian Giorgio Franchetti, waffles originated from a special dessert of ancient Rome.
“It’s possible that they evolved from a type of pastry called crusula,” Franchetti explains. In Latin, crusula means a crispy, melt-in-the-mouth pastry.
Although there are no historical records that clearly detail the shape of the crust, Italian historians suggest that they were flat cookies baked between two heated iron plates, similar to the process waffle making process.
Crustula itself evolved from panis obelius—a bread served with olives or fresh figs in Dionysian rituals in ancient Rome. Franchetti notes that the ancient Romans favored cheese over butter, considering butter an inferior byproduct of milk, mainly used as a cosmetic. Instead, they made the crust using animal fat. Over time, this ceremonial dish became a reward given by tutors to the brightest students of wealthy families.
Over time, the simple but delicious crustula became a dessert at parties. This dish was so popular among ancient Roman writers that it appeared in many literary works. After the advent of Christianity, crustula was included in the meals of followers of this religion. So how did they become waffles today? Mr. Franchetti believes that the way to prepare crustula was perfected in the Middle Ages, and the characteristic waffle-like groove shape began to appear.
Ferratelle, an ancient cookie from various regions in Italy, is considered the link between crustula and waffle.
“In Molise and Abruzzo, locals enjoy ferratelle all year round,” says Franchetti. They come in many different shapes and sizes.”
The name “ferratelle” comes from “ferri”, the Italian word for metal mold—a tool still used to make these cookies today. Ferratelle’s ingredients are similar to those of crustula and they also have a waffle-like shape. They were originally made at home and were especially popular during Christmas or other festive occasions, with families using presses engraved with the family crest or initials as a mark of distinction.
In the 1700s, it was customary for parents to give their daughters a ferratelle cake pan engraved with the family initials as a dowry. Today, Italians enjoy ferratelle for breakfast, as an after-dinner dessert or as a snack on trips.
Popular dish around the world
In Abruzzo, ferratelle is made from eggs, olive oil, milk, vanilla and lemon peel. In addition to the traditional recipe, the famous Dolci Aveja bakery in L’Aquila also offers versions with grains and savory dishes flavored with rosemary.
To speed up the cooking process, people in Abruzzo switched to using an electric press, which eliminates the need to turn the ferratelle during the baking process and still ensures even baking on both sides.
In the coastal town of Vasto, ferratelle covered in dark chocolate is called catarrette. Local historian Gianfranco Bonacci’s family often makes these cookies on Sundays or special occasions and enjoys them throughout the week. Waffle-like dishes also appear in Liguria and Piedmont, where they are called gofri and have a honeycomb shape.
The ancient Romans spread their culture and cuisine throughout the empire, so the crustacean found its way to modern-day France and England. When the Roman Empire fell, this dessert was integrated into the local cuisine. Medieval European trade routes also helped transport Italian ferratelle to Northern Europe.
In the early 1600s, Dutch immigrants brought their culinary traditions to New York City, where the crust (or ferratelle) evolved into the waffle and took root in America. Today, the United States celebrates National Waffle Day on August 24, the anniversary of the day Dutch-American Cornelius Swarthout received the first U.S. patent for a waffle iron.
From its humble origins in ancient Rome to its status as a worldwide favorite, waffles have a rich history that reflects cultural evolution and culinary innovation. Whether sweet or savory, desserts delight taste buds across the globe.
