Dress Codes: The Evolution of Women’s Running Briefs – How High is Too High?
When women first entered Olympic track and field events in 1928, they donned loose t-shirts and wide shorts, often cinched with a belt. These breezy, non-aerodynamic outfits are a stark contrast to today’s sleek, tight performance spandex and high-cut briefs worn by female sprinters, hurdlers, and long-jumpers, designed to reduce drag and minimize chafing.
The Controversy: How High is Too High?
The debate over the cut of women’s running briefs gained traction when Nike unveiled its kits for the 2024 Paris Olympic Games. A viral image of two mannequins side by side sparked discussion: the men’s uniform featured a tank and mid-length shorts, while the women’s leotard was alarmingly high-cut, with the mannequin’s plastic pubic bones on display.
Former US track and field athlete Lauren Fleshman criticized the design on Instagram, attributing it to “patriarchal forces” and expressing concern over athletes having to worry about constant “pube vigilance.” American long-jumper Tara Davis-Woodhall and pole vaulter Katie Moon also voiced their discomfort with the design, highlighting a broader issue with how women’s athletic wear is designed.
Nike’s Response and Athlete Input
Nike emphasized that the controversial leotard was just one of 50 pieces in the collection. They pointed out that sprinter Sha’Carri Richardson had modeled a singlet with shorts at the event, and tailoring would be available as needed. The collection was developed in consultation with athletes to meet their needs, a process validated by a USA Track and Field (USATF) spokesperson.
Despite Nike’s reassurances, the contentious design remains a point of concern, especially following the German women’s gymnastics team’s protest at the 2020 Tokyo Games against bikini-cut unitards in favor of fuller coverage to combat “sexualization in gymnastics.”
Functionality and Style in Athletic Wear
Olympic track regulations on athletic wear are minimal, focusing on fairness and decency. Men competing in the 1896 Olympic track events wore long shorts and tank tops, a far cry from today’s technical sportswear.
Dobriana Gheneva, a professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology and former designer for Nike, The North Face, and Reebok, notes the evolution of athletic apparel towards more technical designs for comfort and ease of movement. Women’s Olympic track attire evolved from simple tees and shorts to tighter, higher hemlines in the 1960s and the brief and bikini styles of the 1980s. Today’s athletes wear a variety of tight-fitting, performance-enhancing fabrics designed to reduce drag and showcase their muscular builds.
The Influence of Iconic Athletes
The importance of appearance for confidence and performance is evident in the legacy of athletes like Florence Griffith Joyner and Sha’Carri Richardson. Griffith Joyner’s high-cut leotards and one-legged catsuits inspired future generations, including Serena Williams and Cathy Freeman, who wore a full-coverage, hooded Nike Swift Suit to her 400m win in 2000, designed to reduce drag.
However, the trend towards more revealing outfits for female athletes continues, raising questions about the disparity between male and female uniforms. Gheneva emphasizes the need for options that prioritize comfort without compromising on modesty, advocating for a move beyond overly revealing designs.
In conclusion, as the evolution of women’s running briefs progresses, the balance between functionality, comfort, and modesty remains a crucial consideration for athletes and designers alike.
