“Italian climbers unveil an exhilarating new challenge on the Mont Blanc massif with the first ascent of ‘Cric e Croc,’ a climb dedicated to a fallen mountaineer”
On July 17, 2024, Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra, alongside Giovanna Mongilardi, accomplished a significant climbing feat on the Mont Blanc massif. They completed the first ascent of ‘Cric e Croc,’ a captivating 6-pitch rock climb located on Rognon Vaudano, the impressive cliff situated beneath the iconic Dent du Géant. This newly established route, graded at a maximum of 6b+, is a tribute to the late Davide Vaudano, a cherished figure in the climbing community.
The adventure began with Bruni’s fascination for a striking granite wall, characterized by its stunning red and gray hues. Standing approximately 150 meters high, the wall beckoned with its sheer beauty and challenge. Bruni, equipped with a drill, wrench, and hammer, set out with Mongilardi to explore and assess the route. As they climbed the initial pitch, they were greeted by a majestic expanse of gray granite, marking the start of an exhilarating ascent. However, as temperatures dropped, the team decided to retreat for the day.
Determined to complete the climb, Bruni enlisted the help of Gianluca Marra. The duo returned on July 21 and 24 to finalize the bolting and cleaning of the route. Their efforts culminated in the creation of ‘Cric e Croc,’ a spectacular climb featuring a variety of technical challenges, including intriguing cracks and delicate slabs.
The choice to name the wall Rognon Vaudano is a heartfelt homage to Davide Vaudano, who tragically lost his life on the Rutor glacier in August 2009. The new route honors his memory and acknowledges his contributions to the climbing world. The wall’s name also pays respect to the legacy of earlier climbs established by Rudy Buccella, Davide Vaudano, and Roberto Romano, who, despite their own tragic fates, left a mark on the rock face with their 4-pitch climbs bolted in 1993/1994.
Since the 1990s, the glacier below Rognon Vaudano has receded by approximately 50 to 60 meters, altering the landscape and approach to the climb. The starting point for ‘Cric e Croc’ is a short 25 to 30-minute hike from Punta Helbronner and the Torino mountain hut. Climbers follow a trail toward Aiguille Marbrées before ascending to the base of Rognon Vaudano.
As a new addition to the climbing community, ‘Cric e Croc’ promises to offer both seasoned climbers and adventurous novices a unique and memorable experience. With its challenging routes and breathtaking views, this climb stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of exploration and dedication in the world of mountaineering.
