A Dish Turks Rarely Eat Alone
Turkey – Associated with the legend of Noah surviving the great flood, ashure is a pudding that symbolizes sharing and spreading kindness.
Goreme is a traditional dessert shop located in the Kurtulus district of Istanbul, famous for its ashure, also known as aşure (pronounced aah-shoor-ey) – one of the oldest desserts in the world.
Ashure is also referred to as “Noah’s Pudding.” According to legend, this dish was prepared to celebrate Noah’s family’s survival after the flood, when their ark landed on Mount Ararat. This rich dish is a blend of about ten types of grains, fruits, nuts, and legumes… or whatever ingredients were left on the ark after the deluge. At Goreme, the chef blends figs, apricots, raisins, green beans, white beans, oats, salt, rice starch, hazelnuts, and adds a touch of turmeric for color.
The dish is mildly sweet with a hint of saltiness, and fragrant with fruit. When served warm, it has a thick, porridge-like consistency, while cold, it sets into a texture similar to custard or caramel. Today, ashure remains a beloved dish across Anatolia.
In Arabic, “ashure” means “10,” referencing the 10th day of Muharram, the first month of the Islamic calendar. During this time, Muslim families prepare large quantities of ashure and distribute it to relatives, friends, neighbors, and colleagues, regardless of their religion or beliefs. This act symbolizes the spreading of love, sharing, and peace.
Furthermore, Noah’s Pudding reflects the culinary traditions of the Anatolian people. Ingredients like chickpeas and grains create a diverse and harmonious flavor, symbolizing prosperity and reflecting a rich, nutritious cuisine. It also evokes images of local kitchens, always stocked with staple foods like beans, grains, and seeds.
There are many recipes and ingredients used to make ashure. Most recipes are vegan but still packed with nutrients. Traditionally, ashure is eaten in the winter as it is both nourishing and warming, but today it is enjoyed year-round.
One of the simplest and most popular ashure recipes involves eight ingredients: wheat, sugar, raisins, chickpeas, white beans, water, cinnamon, and walnuts. These ingredients symbolize sharing, health, and warm family ties.
Ashure has even made its way into the traditional cuisines of Greece and Armenia and has been adapted in Middle Eastern and Eastern European cooking. In Armenia, ashure is made as a Christmas pudding and is a central dish during New Year celebrations. The dish is deeply rooted in the memories of many Anatolian people and has been passed down through generations, from grandmothers to mothers, daughters, and their children.
To enjoy traditional ashure, you can visit some of the historic bakeries in Istanbul, such as Saray Muhallebicisi on Istiklal Street, Sütiş Emirgan in the Emirgan neighborhood, Beyaz Fırın, Bolulu Hasan Usta, and Zeynel Muhallebicisi.
