Kayaköy: The Ghost Town Frozen in Time
Nestled in southwestern Turkey’s Muğla Province, Kayaköy stands as a haunting reminder of the past, a ghost town that has been deserted for over a century. This once-thriving town, with its large and dignified school, narrow streets, and ancient fountains, now lies in silent ruin, its empty houses lining the steep valley slopes. Among its relics are two churches, one of which offers stunning views over the azure waters of the Aegean Sea, a view that remains as timeless as the town itself.
Kayaköy, known as Levissi in its prime, was a bustling community of over 10,000 Greek Orthodox Christians. These residents, many skilled craftsmen, lived in harmony with the Muslim Turkish farmers in the region. However, the town’s peaceful existence was shattered in the early 1920s, during the upheaval that followed the Greco-Turkish War. The resulting population exchange between Greece and Turkey saw the forced departure of Kayaköy’s Greek residents, who were replaced by Muslim Turks from Kavala, Greece. The newcomers, however, were unhappy with their new home and soon left, abandoning the town to decay.
Today, Kayaköy is a strikingly beautiful yet eerie place to visit. The town’s crumbling buildings, now overtaken by nature, offer a glimpse into a world long gone. The narrow, winding streets that once bustled with life are now quiet, with only the occasional tourist wandering through. The sense of sadness and loss is palpable, a lingering echo of the tragic events of the 1920s.
Visitors to Kayaköy can explore its remains, including the old schoolhouse and the Upper Church, a large structure with faded pink walls and barrel-vaulted ceilings. Though the church is now sealed off due to its dilapidated state, the view from its hilltop location is nothing short of spectacular. From this vantage point, the town’s history seems to come alive, offering a bitter reflection on the past.
For those willing to venture further, a hike up the hillside leads to a smaller church with a domed roof and tiny windows, reminiscent of the classic structures found on Greek islands. From here, the view extends over the thickly forested hillsides to the glistening waters of the Adriatic Sea, a sight that has remained unchanged for centuries.
Kayaköy is more than just a ghost town; it is a monument to a bygone era, a place where history and nature intertwine. It serves as a poignant reminder of the impact of war and displacement, and the enduring beauty of a land that has witnessed the passage of time.