The Story Behind the Glory of the ‘Queen of Everest’
Behind the glory of Lhakpa Sherpa, the woman who has summited Everest more times than any other, lies a tale of resilience and strength in the face of adversity.
Lhakpa Sherpa, a Nepalese mountaineer, holds the world record for the most Everest ascents by a woman, with 10 successful climbs. Despite her incredible achievements, Lhakpa’s journey has been anything but easy. She currently resides in the United States with her three children, working at a grocery store and as a janitor.
Her remarkable life is the subject of the documentary film “Mountain Queen: The Summits of Lhakpa Sherpa,” directed by Lucy Walker. “I wasn’t academically brilliant, but I knew the mountains well,” Sherpa states. Born in 1973 to a farming family in the Himalayas, Sherpa grew up with 11 siblings. She spent her childhood carrying her younger brother across hills to school, though she herself never received an education and remains illiterate to this day.
Lhakpa started working at a young age. At 15, she became a porter for mountaineering expeditions. This job allowed her to avoid an arranged marriage, but life became more challenging when she became pregnant with her boyfriend’s child. The relationship ended before marriage, and she felt too ashamed to return home as a single mother. To support herself, Lhakpa continued working in the mountains and eventually met Romanian-American climber George Dijmărescu, whom she married in 2002. They settled in Connecticut and had two daughters, Sunny and Shiny.
However, their relationship deteriorated due to domestic violence. In 2004, during an Everest climb, Dijmărescu assaulted Lhakpa during bad weather. Journalist Michael Kodas, who covered the expedition, reported that Dijmărescu’s behavior changed dramatically. “George was screaming and hitting me,” Lhakpa recalls. Kodas captured photos of Lhakpa lying unconscious after being thrown out of the tent by her husband.
In 2012, Lhakpa was hospitalized after another assault by Dijmărescu. With the help of a social worker, she moved to a shelter for abused women and rebuilt her life. They divorced in 2015, and Lhakpa was awarded custody of their daughters. Dijmărescu received a suspended six-month prison sentence and a year of probation for disturbing public order, but was acquitted of second-degree assault due to lack of head injury evidence in court records. He passed away from cancer in 2020, but the scars of his abuse remain.
Encouraged by her eldest son, Nima, Lhakpa agreed to collaborate with Walker on the documentary. Nima had studied Walker’s previous works and believed she could help share his mother’s inspiring story. The film delves into Lhakpa’s struggles and triumphs, highlighting her strength as a woman who has endured and overcome significant hardships.
“Strong women who have been hurt are incredibly powerful,” Walker aims to convey through the documentary. Lhakpa’s daughters, Sunny and Shiny, also participate in the film. They found it challenging to see their personal lives exposed but wanted to showcase the resilience that helped their family persevere.
Lhakpa’s journey is a testament to her bravery and determination. Despite facing numerous dangers, from treacherous climbs to an abusive marriage, she remains steadfast. “I won’t give up easily and will keep fighting,” she asserts. Climbing is not just a passion for Lhakpa; it is a form of healing. She leaves her sorrows behind on the mountains. In 2022, she made her 10th successful ascent of Everest, a feat that fills her daughters with pride.
Lhakpa is working hard to create a better life for herself and her children, ensuring they receive a proper education. She aspires to establish her own mountaineering guide company and seeks additional sponsorship. With her extensive mountain knowledge, she aims to share her expertise with others.
“Many women are now inspired to conquer mountains and follow in my mother’s footsteps,” says Lhakpa’s daughter.
