“Zoe Stephens, a 30-year-old from Liverpool, has turned her unexpected passion for North Korea into a career, challenging the media’s portrayal by showcasing the human side of this secretive nation”
When Zoe Stephens first ventured into North Korea in 2017, she never imagined it would lead to a career. The British traveler, then 30 years old, was struck by how different the reality of North Korea was compared to the grim image often painted by the media.
“I went to North Korea as a tourist, just like everyone else, and quickly realized it’s not what we’ve been told,” Zoe shared with The Korea Herald. “The real North Korea surprised and charmed me.”
This initial experience sparked a desire in Zoe to reveal a side of North Korea that few outsiders ever see. Determined to counter the often one-dimensional portrayal of the country, she began organizing tours to introduce others to the “human side” of North Korea.
Since that first visit, Zoe has returned more than 20 times, staying for up to a month at a time until the pandemic forced the borders to close. She eventually took up a job as a tour guide for Koryo Tours, a Beijing-based company specializing in North Korean travel. “Being a North Korea tour guide was my first real job after university, and I love it,” she said. “I’m also a professional blogger and digital marketer.”
The pandemic didn’t stop Zoe from sharing her North Korean adventures. She launched a YouTube channel, Zoe Discovers, where she chronicles her experiences. Her most popular video features a casual conversation with a North Korean soldier at the Demilitarized Zone, one of the most heavily guarded borders in the world.
“I didn’t plan to interview the soldier; it just happened naturally,” Zoe explained. “I asked my North Korean guide if it would be okay, and she suggested I try. The soldier and I had met before, so he was happy to chat. That was in December 2019.”
Despite her frequent visits and video content, Zoe insists she receives no special treatment from North Korean authorities. “People think I have some sort of special access, but that’s not true. Everything I film or photograph is accessible to anyone,” she clarified. She believes the reputation of Koryo Tours, which has been operating in North Korea for years, might contribute to her ease of access.
Zoe is careful to avoid any appearance of collusion with North Korean authorities. “I get a lot of backlash because people don’t want to see North Korea in the way I present it,” she said. “I’m not promoting North Korea or doing propaganda. I’ve been to remote, less glamorous places, not just Pyongyang. They’re not hiding anything from me.”
One of the biggest myths Zoe aims to dispel is the idea that photography is heavily restricted in North Korea. “You can take photos unless you’re told not to,” she said, challenging the common perception.
Zoe also disputes the notion that North Korea is as dangerous as many believe. “I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: North Korea is safer than many European cities. It’s safer than my hometown of Liverpool,” she stated. “You’re safe as long as you follow the rules.”
A key rule to follow is avoiding political discussions with locals. “I’d advise against talking about their leaders because you don’t want to accidentally offend anyone,” Zoe cautioned.
Beyond this, Zoe has built trust with North Koreans by being genuine and respectful. She criticizes bloggers who sensationalize their experiences, often putting their North Korean partners in difficult situations. “I don’t try to make North Korea seem crazy,” she said. Zoe also practices self-censorship in her content, choosing not to share anything that could be seen as disrespectful or unethical.
Her family was initially concerned about her travels. “My dad thought it was exciting, but my mom was in tears when I told her I was going to North Korea,” Zoe recalled. “I told her to research North Korea tourism herself, rather than just believe everything the media says.”
Zoe’s favorite spot in North Korea is Nampo, a seaside city southwest of Pyongyang. “There’s a resort there with private spas in each room and a swimming pool. Everyone loves it,” she said.
For those considering a visit to North Korea, Zoe’s advice is simple: “Go with an open mind and connect with the locals. Buy them a beer, get to know them. They are your gateway to understanding the human side of North Korea that the media doesn’t show.”
Despite her positive experiences, experts in Seoul remain skeptical. They suggest that the level of access Zoe enjoys would likely require some form of approval from North Korean authorities. “It’s unlikely that such encounters and freedom of movement are permitted without oversight,” said Park Won-gon, a North Korea studies professor at Ewha Womans University. North Korean defector Kim Gum-hyok echoed this sentiment, adding, “Random encounters and free-roaming are typically off-limits to most people in North Korea.”
While opinions vary, Zoe Stephens continues to offer a unique and personal glimpse into a country that remains one of the most enigmatic places on Earth.
