“Discover the thrilling journey of Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, and Zdeněk Hák as they achieve the first ascent of Muchu Chhish, one of the highest unclimbed peaks in the world, located in the Karakoram range of Pakistan”
In a remarkable feat of mountaineering, Czech climbers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, and Zdeněk Hák successfully completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish, a formidable 7,453-meter peak in the Karakoram range of Pakistan. This mountain, previously known as the highest unclimbed peak globally, presented a significant challenge, but the trio’s determination and skill led them to triumph.
Initially, the team had planned an expedition to the Hindu Kush Mountains in Afghanistan. However, when those plans fell through, they turned their attention to Pakistan’s Karakoram range. Radoslav Groh, also known as “Radar,” proposed tackling Muchu Chhish, a mountain long regarded as an untouched giant by fellow mountaineer Pavel Korinek. After a brief consultation with Korinek, the decision was made.
On June 6th, the three Czech mountaineers—Groh, Bansky, and Hák—set off from their homeland, making their way to the remote region of Hunza in northern Pakistan via Islamabad. Their initial attempt at acclimatization on a nearby 6,000-meter peak was cut short due to Hák falling ill. Undeterred, they pressed on and established a base camp on the Muchuchar Glacier, directly below Muchu Chhish, where they would need to acclimate.
The team decided on a four-day acclimatization plan, targeting altitudes of 4,600, 5,400, and 6,100 meters. Following the intended ascent route along the south ridge to the main ridge at 7,300 meters, they returned to base camp on June 28th, having spent three challenging nights on the mountain. Despite the less-than-ideal acclimatization, they were ready to make their summit bid.
The weather forecast promised a week of stable conditions. On July 1st, the climbers began their ascent, starting with a rocky couloir leading up to the glacier at 4,800 meters. They then continued to 5,350 meters, where they established their first bivouac after a grueling 1,400-meter climb. The following day, they faced mixed climbing conditions, including rock pitches graded at M4 and extensive ice climbing, eventually reaching 6,300 meters where they set up their second camp beneath a prominent serac.
As they continued their ascent on July 3rd, the terrain became increasingly challenging, with steep snow and ice slopes up to 70°. The deep snow required the use of specialized snowshoes, which proved invaluable in their progress. After a hard-fought day, the team bivouacked at 6,750 meters, knowing they still had another 500 meters of climbing ahead.
The next day, July 4th, presented less steep but seemingly endless terrain. Careful route-finding was crucial as they navigated the snow-covered slopes. Bansky, known as “Banana,” took the lead, blazing a trail as they climbed. By early evening, they reached 7,250 meters, just below the summit ridge, and set up their final bivouac, only to be greeted by snowfall.
On the morning of July 5th, the skies cleared, and the team set out for the summit, leaving behind their bivouac gear to travel light. The summit ridge, approximately 1,500 meters to the west, required careful navigation through steep and treacherous terrain. After several false summits, they reached a large rock tower below the final headwall. With only 150 vertical meters left, Bansky once again took the lead. At 10:20 am local time, the trio reached the summit of Muchu Chhish, becoming the first climbers to stand on its peak. They left a snow anchor with their signatures, marking the historic achievement of the Krkonoše Expedition.
The descent proved equally challenging, complicated by poor visibility and wind-blown tracks. Exhausted and battling the elements, they carefully retraced their steps, descending back to their final bivouac at 6,750 meters. The next morning, aware of the deteriorating weather, they began their descent to the glacier, covering 1,500 vertical meters, rappelling only 100 meters of the most treacherous sections. By noon, they faced scorching temperatures, with avalanches thundering around them. Navigating the crevasse-riddled glacier required utmost caution as they carefully picked their way back to base camp, arriving late in the afternoon.
The following day, under gloomy skies, the team descended the Muchuchar Glacier and returned to Aliabad, accompanied by raindrops—a fitting end to an expedition marked by perseverance, skill, and an indomitable spirit.
