For thousands of years, horses were the primary means of transportation in Mongolia, symbolizing the nation’s rich heritage. Today, the iron horse has become a modern favorite, offering an unforgettable way to traverse this expansive Central Asian country. The Trans-Mongolian Railway, stretching 2,215 kilometers (1,376 miles) from Mongolia’s northern border with Russia to China’s Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, is one of the world’s most epic train journeys.
Completed in 1956 after nearly two decades of construction, the Trans-Mongolian Railway navigates some of the planet’s most breathtaking landscapes. The train passes through dense taiga (boreal forest), the storied steppes of central Mongolia, and the vast Gobi Desert. Along the way, remote towns and settlements appear sporadically, with civilization becoming increasingly sparse, particularly during Mongolia’s snowy winter months.
British rail travel expert Mark Smith, founder of The Man in Seat 61 website, describes his experience on the Trans-Mongolian Railway as a stark contrast to his previous journeys through Siberia. “Mongolia offered wide-open grasslands, camels, and frequent ‘yurt alerts’ as nomadic settlements came into view,” Smith notes.
The journey through Mongolia culminates in a surprising sight when high-rise buildings emerge as the train approaches Ulaanbaatar. With over 1.6 million residents, Ulaanbaatar is home to more than half of Mongolia’s population and serves as a significant stop on the Moscow-Beijing route, offering a chance to explore the city for a couple of days.
Travelers should consider visiting Ulaanbaatar’s train station, which opened in 1949. The station, with its ornate chandeliers and vintage steam locomotive, provides a nostalgic glimpse into Mongolia’s Soviet-era rail history.
**How to Ride the Trans-Mongolian Railway**
Historically, international passengers often experienced the Trans-Mongolian Railway as part of a larger Moscow-Beijing rail journey. However, this route has been suspended since 2020 due to the Covid-19 pandemic and remains unavailable for most travelers. “It’s a shame because it was one of the great overland trips,” says Christian Stanley, director of the Trans-Siberian Travel Company.
Travelers from countries not affected by sanctions against Russia can still undertake a Moscow-Beijing journey via Mongolia, though it requires separate bookings. For those solely interested in exploring Mongolia, the regular service between Ulaanbaatar and the border towns of Zamiin-Uud/Erenhot is highly recommended. This journey, which traverses the steppes and Gobi Desert, takes about a day or night and tickets can be purchased at the Ulaanbaatar train station.
Recent upgrades have modernized the Trans-Mongolian Railway. Soviet-era diesel locomotives have been replaced with American models, and the carriages now feature second-class hard-sleeper and first-class deluxe soft-sleeper compartments. These compartments come with lockable doors, small tables, power outlets, air conditioning/heating, and bedding. Hard sleepers share a Western-style toilet per carriage, while soft sleepers have an ensuite bathroom.
Laura Jopson, a New Zealand traveler, describes her experience in a four-berth cabin as comfortable and quiet. “Each evening, the attendants converted the seating into bunks. A small daypack is recommended for easy access to essentials,” she advises. Each carriage is equipped with a samovar for hot drinks and instant meals.
Dining options include a Mongolian restaurant car, known for its mutton and rice dishes. Passengers can also bring snacks and drinks from Ulaanbaatar or purchase them during stops. “The Mongolian dining car had beautifully carved wood decor, and the food was tasty and reasonably priced,” Jopson adds.
**Journey Highlights and Border Crossing**
Ulaanbaatar offers several attractions, including the Gandan Monastery, the Central Museum of Mongolian Dinosaurs, and the Bogd Khaan Palace Museum. A massive stainless steel statue of Genghis Khan stands just outside the capital, celebrating Mongolia’s historical figure.
A round-trip journey between Ulaanbaatar and Zamiin-Uud takes about two days. Travelers can extend their trip by stopping at notable towns such as Choir and Sainshand. Choir, located near the Gobi Desert, honors local hero Jügderdemidiin Gürragchaa, Mongolia’s first cosmonaut, with a statue in the town plaza. Sainshand offers better facilities, including several hotels and restaurants.
For those traveling to China, a round-trip service is available every Monday and Friday, crossing into Hohhot, Inner Mongolia. The main event at the border is the train’s transition from Mongolia’s wider track gauge to China’s standard gauge. Smith recalls the experience: “The train was lifted and had its bogies changed, a fascinating process that took about an hour.”
The Trans-Mongolian Railway remains a remarkable journey, offering a unique glimpse into the diverse landscapes and cultures of Mongolia.
